‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Top Food Spots.

When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.

Mark Ibarra
Mark Ibarra

A software engineer and tech writer passionate about AI ethics and digital transformation, with over a decade in Silicon Valley.