Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
